I went there about a year ago. You abso-fucking-lutely have to visit the Karakul lake when you are there. It’s the most beautiful and quiet place I’ve ever seen in my life. Don’t get caught up with what you read on the internet, you don’t need a guide or a permit to go there. Just buy a bus ticket in a ticktet office and go there by yourself. You can sleep with a Kirgiz family (“house” or yurt) for about 30RMB/night/person including meals (yak milk tea with bread breakfast+lunch, rice dish in the evening). Milk some yak’s while you’re there. They will pick you up as soon as the bus arrives there.
The animal market is also cool to see. Don’t forget to eat goat head.